İzmir, the ancient Smyrna, is Türkiye’s third city and its most relaxed: a sunny, liberal port spread around a deep bay on the Aegean, with a seafront promenade where the whole city strolls at sunset, ferries crossing the water, and a famous love of good food and evenings out. It has fewer headline monuments than Istanbul, but its old bazaar of Kemeraltı is one of the best in the country, the Roman Agora sits in the middle of town, and it is the gateway to some of Türkiye’s greatest sights: Ephesus, Pergamon, Sardis and the beaches and windsurfing of the Çeşme peninsula. With an international airport and trains to Selçuk and Denizli, İzmir is the natural hub for a trip along the Aegean coast. Give it two days for the city, and use it as a base for day trips.
Right now in İzmir
- Wed 15–23°C 59–73°F Partly cloudy
- Thu 15–24°C 59–75°F Partly cloudy
- Fri 16–25°C 60–77°F Clear
Weather: MET Norway (CC BY 4.0) · Sea temperature: NOAA CoastWatch · Rates: ECB
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İzmir at a glance
- Best for: seafront life, bazaar food, a laid-back big city, and day trips to Ephesus, Pergamon and the Çeşme peninsula.
- How long: 1–2 days for the city; 3–5 days with day trips.
- Best time: April to June and September to October. July and August are very hot (average highs around 33 °C) but cooled by the afternoon sea breeze, the imbat.
- Getting in: İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB), about 18 km south, linked to the city by the İZBAN suburban railway and the metro; long-distance buses to the Otogar; regional trains from Denizli and Selçuk.
- Tickets (October 2026): the Agora of Smyrna €6; the Pergamon Acropolis €15 and Asklepion €13; Ephesus €40.
- Before you go: visas, money and transport around the country are in our Türkiye travel guide.
A short history of Smyrna
Smyrna was one of the great cities of the ancient Aegean, claimed as the birthplace of Homer, refounded by Alexander’s successors on Mount Pagos and later a rich Roman city and one of the Seven Churches of Revelation. Under the Ottomans it grew into the empire’s most cosmopolitan port, with Turkish, Greek, Armenian, Jewish and Levantine European communities trading figs, raisins, tobacco and cotton with the world. Much of that city was destroyed by the great fire of September 1922, at the end of the War of Independence, and the population exchange between Greece and Türkiye followed in 1923. Modern İzmir was rebuilt as a planned, outward-looking Republican city, and it is still known as Türkiye’s most liberal and secular big city, with a strong café culture and a passion for its football clubs and its waterfront.
İzmir’s neighbourhoods
Konak and Kemeraltı
The historic centre around Konak Square, with the 1901 clock tower (the city’s symbol), the tiny tiled Konak Mosque, and Kemeraltı, a vast bazaar district stretching inland. The Agora and the old Jewish quarter with its restored synagogues are here. Best for: sightseeing and food.
Alsancak and the Kordon
North of Konak, the seafront promenade of the Kordon runs past cafés and fish restaurants, with Alsancak’s grid of old Levantine houses behind it full of bars, meyhanes and boutiques. Best for: evenings out and staying central.
Karşıyaka and Bostanlı
Across the bay, reached by ferry: a lively residential district with a long seaside park, a busy shopping street and the cafés and sunset views of Bostanlı. Best for: seeing local life and a ferry ride.
Karataş and the Asansör
South-west of Konak, the old Jewish neighbourhood of Karataş climbs a steep cliff. The Asansör, a lift built in 1907, carries you up to a terrace restaurant with views over the bay. Best for: sunset views.
Top things to see in İzmir
Kemeraltı bazaar
A maze of covered and open-air lanes selling everything from spices, dried fruit, olives and lokum to leather, gold and household goods, with historic inns (hans) turned into tea gardens. Kızlarağası Han, a restored 18th-century caravanserai, is the prettiest. Stop for a boyoz (a flaky local pastry) and a boiled egg, or şambali cake, and drink a Turkish coffee in a han courtyard. Shops close on Sundays.
Tips for Kemeraltı: go in the morning on a weekday, when the lanes are lively but not packed; take small notes for snacks; and expect to get lost, which is part of the fun. Bargaining is normal for souvenirs and textiles, less so for food. The old synagogues of the Havra Sokağı area, some now restored, can be visited on guided tours, and the area is also a good place for a fish sandwich and a glass of fresh pomegranate juice.
The Agora of Smyrna
The Roman marketplace of Smyrna, rebuilt after an earthquake in AD 178 with the help of Marcus Aurelius, is one of the best-preserved agoras in Türkiye, with a row of Corinthian columns, vaulted basement shops still standing to full height, and graffiti scratched into the plaster by Roman citizens. As of October 2026 the ticket is €6 for foreign visitors, open 08:30–17:30.
Kadifekale
The castle on Mount Pagos, founded according to tradition after Alexander the Great dreamed of a new city here, offers the widest view over İzmir and its bay. The walls are mostly Byzantine and Ottoman; the area around is a poorer neighbourhood, so take a taxi or bus up and visit by day.
The Kordon and Konak Pier
Walk the seafront from Konak to Alsancak at sunset, past the Konak Pier shopping centre, built in the 1890s as a customs house by Gustave Eiffel’s company. On summer evenings, the whole city comes out to eat sunflower seeds and midye dolma (stuffed mussels) on the waterfront grass.
Museums
The İzmir Archaeology Museum and the Ethnography Museum stand together in Bahribaba Park near Konak. The Atatürk House on the Kordon, where he stayed on visits to the city, is a small museum. The İzmir Art and Culture Factory (Ahmet Piriştina City Archive and Museum) and the restored historic gasworks (Havagazı Fabrikası) in Alsancak host exhibitions and concerts.
Castles and forts
- Kadifekale
Museums
- Agora of Smyrna
- İzmir Archaeological Museum
Historic centres
- Kemeraltı
Monuments
- İzmir Clock Tower
Parks and gardens
- Kültürpark
Churches and cathedrals
- St. John's Cathedral
Day trips from İzmir
Ephesus and Selçuk
The Roman city of Ephesus is about an hour south by İZBAN train or car; the town of Selçuk next to it has the Basilica of St John and the Ephesus Museum. As of October 2026 the Ephesus ticket is €40 including the Experience Museum, plus €15 for the Terrace Houses. Read our Selçuk and Ephesus guide.
Pergamon (Bergama)
About 1½–2 hours north, the hilltop Acropolis of Pergamon was one of the great Hellenistic capitals, with the steepest theatre of the ancient world, the Temple of Trajan and the site of the Great Altar now in Berlin. A cable car runs up from the town. Below, the Asklepion was a famous healing sanctuary where the physician Galen worked. Tickets as of October 2026: Acropolis €15, Asklepion €13, both open 08:30–17:30. Buses run from İzmir’s Otogar to Bergama; a car or tour is easiest for both sites in a day.
Plan Pergamon carefully: the Acropolis is on a steep hill above modern Bergama, and the Asklepion is on the other side of town, so walking between them takes time and climbing in summer heat is tiring. The cable car saves the climb to the Acropolis. Allow a full day including the journey, start early, and see the Red Basilica, a huge Roman temple to Egyptian gods in the town centre, on your way between the two. The Bergama Museum (08:30–17:30) has finds from both sites.
Çeşme and Alaçatı
About an hour west, the Çeşme peninsula has İzmir’s best beaches, a Genoese-Ottoman castle in Çeşme town and the stone houses, boutique hotels and windmills of Alaçatı, famous for windsurfing and kitesurfing on its steady winds. Ilıca has long sandy beaches with warm springs offshore. Ferries cross from Çeşme to the Greek island of Chios. See our beaches guide.
Sardis, Şirince and further afield
- Sardis: the capital of King Croesus of Lydia, with a restored Roman gymnasium, a synagogue and the Temple of Artemis, about 1½ hours east.
- Şirince: the hill village of fruit wines above Selçuk.
- Foça: a quiet fishing town with Mediterranean monk seals offshore, about 1 hour north.
- Pamukkale: about 3½ hours by road, or 4½–5 hours by train, better with a night.
Activities and best months
- City sightseeingStart at the Clock Tower in Konak Square and the 500-year-old Kemeraltı bazaar, ride the historic Asansör elevator in Karataş for the view, then walk the Kordon waterfront in Alsancak; take the ferry across the bay to Karşıyaka. · source
Nearby destinations
Getting there and getting around
From the airport
İzmir Adnan Menderes Airport (ADB) has domestic flights from Istanbul (about an hour), Ankara and Antalya, and international flights, many of them seasonal. The İZBAN suburban railway stops at the airport station, about 15 minutes’ ride to the city and connecting with the metro; trains also head south to Selçuk (about 1 hour with a change of train at Tepeköy on some services). Airport buses and taxis run to Konak and Alsancak in about 30–45 minutes.
Public transport
İzmir has a metro (the line from Evka-3 to Fahrettin Altay through Konak), the İZBAN suburban railway along the bay, trams in Karşıyaka and Konak, buses (ESHOT), and the city ferries. Pay with an İzmirim Kart, a rechargeable card sold at stations and piers. Since April 2026 a full fare is reported at ₺35 on buses, metro, trams and ferries and ₺40 on İZBAN (longer İZBAN trips cost more). Transfers between buses, the metro, trams and ferries are discounted within 90 minutes, but İZBAN has been outside that transfer scheme since September 2025.
The ferries
The city ferries across the bay are one of İzmir’s simple pleasures: Konak, Pasaport and Alsancak on the city side to Karşıyaka, Bostanlı and Göztepe, every 15–30 minutes, for about the price of a bus ticket. Take one at sunset.
Trains and buses
TCDD regional trains run from İzmir Basmane station to Selçuk and on to Denizli for Pamukkale (about 4½–5 hours), and north to Manisa. The big Otogar on the eastern edge of the city has buses to the whole country, including Bergama, Çeşme, Kuşadası, Bodrum, Pamukkale, Antalya and Istanbul (about 7–8 hours by road via the motorway and bridge).
When to go and how long to stay
İzmir has a classic Mediterranean climate: hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. Average highs are about 33 °C in July and August and 12–13 °C in January, and the afternoon imbat breeze off the sea makes summer evenings pleasant on the waterfront. Spring and autumn are perfect for sightseeing and day trips; the sea around Çeşme is warm enough to swim from June to October. The İzmir International Fair takes place in late August and early September, and the city celebrates 9 September, the day the Turkish army entered İzmir in 1922, with parades and fireworks.
İzmir in 1 day
Morning in Kemeraltı and the Agora, lunch in a han courtyard, the clock tower and Konak Pier, a ferry to Karşıyaka and back, then sunset on the Kordon and dinner in Alsancak.
İzmir in 3–5 days
Add day trips to Ephesus, Pergamon and the Çeşme peninsula, the Asansör at sunset, and a morning at the Archaeology Museum.
Weather month by month
Averages from MGM normals 1991–2020, İzmir (regional station) · Last reviewed 4 Oct 2026
İzmir with children and on a budget
İzmir is easy with children: the flat Kordon promenade is ideal for scooters and bikes, the ferries are an adventure for little ones, and the İzmir Wildlife Park in Sasalı and the beaches of the Çeşme peninsula make good outings. It is also one of Türkiye’s better-value big cities: a ferry across the bay costs about the same as a bus ticket, Kemeraltı’s snack stalls and lokantas serve filling meals cheaply, and many of the best experiences, walking the waterfront at sunset or wandering the bazaar, are free.
Where to stay and eat
Alsancak and the Kordon are the most enjoyable bases, close to restaurants, bars and the ferries; Konak is handy for the bazaar and the metro. Business hotels cluster around Bayraklı’s new towers. Alaçatı and Çeşme are summer alternatives. Hotel bills include Türkiye’s accommodation tax (cut to 1% until the end of 2026). İzmir’s food is lighter and more vegetable-based than in the rest of Türkiye, with Aegean greens and herbs cooked in olive oil, seafood, boyoz, kumru (a sandwich with sausage and cheese in a sesame bun), and gevrek, the local name for a simit.
Practical tips for İzmir
- Get an İzmirim Kart: it covers buses, the metro, İZBAN and the ferries.
- Use İZBAN for day trips: it is the cheapest way to Selçuk for Ephesus.
- Shop early in Kemeraltı: it is busiest at weekends and closed on Sundays.
- Plan for the heat: visit Ephesus and Pergamon early in the day in summer.
- Watch for pickpockets: in crowded bazaar lanes and on busy ferries.
- Carry your passport: police checks are routine.
What to pack for İzmir
Light, breathable clothes and a sun hat for summer, comfortable shoes for the bazaar and ancient sites, a swimsuit for Çeşme, a scarf and covered shoulders for mosques, and a light jacket for windy evenings by the sea.
What to pack
- City walking shoesLisbon and Porto are steep, with polished limestone cobbles that get slippery, so grippy soles matter.
- Day packs and anti-theft bagsA small zipped or anti-theft bag makes crowded trams and viewpoints less stressful.
- Rain jacketsFrom October to April Porto and Lisbon see rain on roughly a third of days.
- Travel adapters and convertersPortugal uses Type C and F sockets at 230 V, so most visitors from outside Europe need an adapter.
İzmir travel FAQ
How many days do you need in İzmir?
One or two days for the city itself: Kemeraltı, the Agora, the Kordon and a ferry ride. Three to five days if you use İzmir as a base for Ephesus, Pergamon and the Çeşme peninsula.
Where should I stay in İzmir?
Alsancak or the Kordon for the seafront, restaurants and nightlife; Konak for the bazaar, the metro and the ferries; Alaçatı or Çeşme if you want a beach holiday.
Is İzmir worth visiting?
Yes, for a day or two and as a base: it has a great bazaar, the Roman Agora and the seafront, and Ephesus, Pergamon and the Çeşme peninsula are easy day trips.
How do I get from İzmir to Ephesus?
Take the İZBAN suburban train to Selçuk (about 1 hour from the airport, about 1½ hours from central İzmir), then walk or take a minibus or taxi 3 km to Ephesus.
How do I get from İzmir airport to the city centre?
Take the İZBAN train from the airport station (about 15 minutes to the city, changing to the metro for Konak), an airport bus, or a taxi (about 30–45 minutes).
How much is the Agora of Smyrna?
As of October 2026 foreign visitors pay €6. It is open daily from 08:30 to 17:30.
How much are the Pergamon tickets?
As of October 2026 the Acropolis costs €15 and the Asklepion €13 for foreign visitors, both open 08:30–17:30. MuseumPass The Aegean covers both.
What is the best beach near İzmir?
The Çeşme peninsula, about an hour west, has the best: Ilıca’s sandy bay, Alaçatı for windsurfing, and the turquoise coves around Çeşme.
When is the best time to visit İzmir?
April to June and September to October for sightseeing and day trips; June to September for beaches. Summers are hot but breezy.
How do I get from İzmir to Çeşme and Alaçatı?
Buses run from İzmir’s Otogar and from the Üçkuyular bus station in the west of the city to Çeşme and Alaçatı in about 1–1½ hours; by car it is about 80 km on the motorway.
Can I take a ferry from İzmir to Greece?
Not from İzmir itself, but ferries cross from Çeşme to the Greek island of Chios, about an hour west of İzmir, mostly from spring to autumn. Leaving Türkiye for Greece means entering the Schengen area, so carry your passport.
What should I eat in İzmir?
Boyoz and a boiled egg for breakfast, kumru sandwiches, midye dolma on the Kordon, Aegean olive-oil dishes and fresh fish in Alsancak’s meyhanes.
Sources
- © OpenStreetMap contributors · ODbL · fetched 4 Oct 2026
- Wikidata · CC0 · fetched 4 Oct 2026
Sources and last review
Researched and last reviewed on 4 October 2026. Site prices and hours (Agora of Smyrna, Pergamon, Ephesus): the Ministry of Culture and Tourism’s official ticketing site (muze.gov.tr). İzmir transport fares come from Turkish press reports of the April 2026 increase and are flagged for checking against İzmir Metropolitan Municipality; journey times are approximate. For visas, money and safety, see our Türkiye travel guide.
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