Bandar Seri Begawan, the capital of Brunei, is one of the calmest capitals in Asia: a small, green, spotless city on the Brunei River, where golden mosque domes rise above parks and lagoons and a whole village of stilt houses stands on the water opposite the waterfront. Known simply as BSB or “Bandar”, it is the center of Brunei’s government, religion and royal life. Its signature sight, the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, completed in 1958, seems to float on its lagoon, especially at sunset, while the larger Jame’ ‘Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque, with 29 golden domes, stands in the suburbs. Across the river, Kampong Ayer, the largest water village still lived in, has been home to riverside communities for centuries, and a short boat ride downstream, wild proboscis monkeys feed in the mangroves at dusk. The city also has the Royal Regalia Museum, the vast riverside Istana Nurul Iman palace, lively night markets and excellent cheap food. There is no nightlife and no alcohol for sale, and everything closes for Friday prayers, but BSB is safe, easy and rewarding for two or three days, and the gateway to the rainforest of Temburong. It is hot and humid all year; February to April is the driest period.
Right now in Bandar Seri Begawan
- Wed 24–30°C 75–86°F 6 mm Rain
- Thu 23–29°C 74–84°F 18 mm Rain
- Fri 24–29°C 75–85°F 2 mm Cloudy
Weather: MET Norway (CC BY 4.0) · Sea temperature: NOAA CoastWatch
Top tours in Bandar Seri Begawan
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Bandar Seri Begawan at a glance
- Best for: mosques and Islamic architecture, the Kampong Ayer water village, river trips and proboscis monkeys, royal museums, night markets and food.
- How long: 2 days for the city; add 1–2 days for Ulu Temburong National Park.
- Best time: February to April, the driest months; it is hot and humid all year, and October to January is the wettest period.
- Getting there: Brunei International Airport is about 10 km (6 miles) north of the center, 15–20 minutes by car.
- Getting around: on foot in the center, by bus (BND1), the Dart ride-hailing app and water taxis.
- Good to know: shops and restaurants close from 12 noon to 2 p.m. on Fridays, and you must dress modestly at mosques.
- Before you go: the visa-free rules, the E-Arrival Card, alcohol rules and money are in our Brunei travel guide.
Bandar Seri Begawan’s areas and where to stay
The city center and waterfront
The compact center, between the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the riverside Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas waterfront park, holds the Royal Regalia Museum, the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah shopping complex, government buildings, the Tamu Kianggeh market and the water-taxi jetties for Kampong Ayer. It is walkable and has several hotels.
Kampong Ayer
Across the river, the stilt villages of Kampong Ayer are residential, with a cultural gallery, cafés and a few homestays.
Gadong
About 5 km (3 miles) northwest of the center, Gadong is the commercial district, with malls, restaurants, cafés and the famous Gadong night market; several mid-range hotels stand here.
Jerudong and the coast
West of the city, the coastal area of Jerudong has the Empire Brunei resort, the Jerudong Park Playground and the Arts and Handicraft areas, about 20–25 minutes by car.
Where to stay in Bandar Seri Begawan
- City center: business and mid-range hotels within walking distance of the mosque, museums and river.
- Gadong: mid-range hotels near the night market and malls, better with a car or Dart.
- Jerudong: the Empire Brunei luxury resort, with beach, pools and golf.
- Kampong Ayer: a few homestays in the water village for a different experience.
Budget choices are limited to a few hostels and guesthouses. Book ahead for National Day (February 23), the Sultan’s Birthday (July 15) and Hari Raya, when the palace opens to the public.
Top things to see in Bandar Seri Begawan
Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque
Completed in 1958 and named after the 28th Sultan, the father of the present ruler, the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is the symbol of Brunei. Its golden dome, covered in gold mosaic, rises above Italian marble columns, stained-glass windows and chandeliers, with a tall minaret beside it. The mosque stands in an artificial lagoon with a replica of a 16th-century royal barge, linked by a bridge, and is surrounded by gardens and fountains. It is especially beautiful at sunset and when lit up at night. Visitors are welcome outside prayer times, but non-Muslims are not admitted on Thursday evenings and Friday mornings or during prayers; women must cover their head, shoulders and knees, and robes are provided at the entrance.
Jame’ ‘Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque
The country’s largest mosque, in the suburb of Kiarong near Gadong, was completed in 1994 to mark the 25th year of the current Sultan’s reign, with 29 golden domes, one for each Sultan of Brunei, four minarets, gardens and fountains. Its interior is richly decorated with marble, carpets and chandeliers. The same dress rules and visiting hours apply.
Kampong Ayer
The water village of Kampong Ayer spreads along the Brunei River in more than 40 linked villages of houses on stilts, with schools, mosques, clinics and fire stations, home to several thousand people. Take a water taxi from the waterfront jetties for a dollar or two to cross the river, walk the plank walkways, and visit the Kampong Ayer Cultural and Tourism Gallery, which explains the history and crafts of the village and has a viewing tower over the river. Remember that these are people’s homes, and ask before taking photos.
Royal Regalia Museum
Opened for the Sultan’s Silver Jubilee in 1992, the Royal Regalia Museum displays the golden royal chariot used at the coronation and jubilee processions, crowns, ceremonial daggers and costumes, and a vast collection of gifts from heads of state. Entry is free; remove your shoes at the door, and leave cameras and phones as instructed.
River trips and proboscis monkeys
Water taxis can be hired for an hour or two to cruise the Brunei River past Kampong Ayer, the Istana Nurul Iman palace and into the mangroves, where wild proboscis monkeys, with their huge noses and potbellies, come to the riverbanks to feed in the late afternoon. Monitor lizards, crocodiles, kingfishers and egrets are often seen too. Sunset trips are best; agree on the price and route with the boatman, or book through your hotel. See our boat trips guide.
Istana Nurul Iman
The Sultan’s official residence, on the riverbank west of the city, is said to be the largest residential palace in the world, with about 1,788 rooms, golden domes and vast halls. It is closed to visitors except during the three days of Hari Raya Aidilfitri, when the public lines up to meet the royal family; otherwise, see it from the river or the road.
More classic sights
- Brunei Museum: Islamic art, Brunei’s history and the oil industry, in Kota Batu east of the center; check whether it has reopened after renovation.
- Malay Technology Museum: traditional houses, boats and crafts, near the Brunei Museum.
- Tomb of Sultan Bolkiah: the tomb of the fifth Sultan, who ruled during Brunei’s golden age, near Kota Batu.
- Tamu Kianggeh: a riverside market of fruit, vegetables, jungle produce and snacks.
- Taman Mahkota Jubli Emas: the waterfront park facing Kampong Ayer, lively in the evening.
- Islamic Calligraphy Study Center: a training center for calligraphy and Islamic art, with exhibitions.
Other things to do in Bandar Seri Begawan
Food and drink
BSB is a great place to eat cheaply. Join locals at the Gadong night market (Pasar Malam Gadong) from late afternoon for satay, grilled fish and chicken wings, nasi katok (rice, fried chicken and sambal), roti john, noodles, fresh fruit juices and kuih. Try ambuyat, Brunei’s national dish of sago starch dipped in a sour sauce, at restaurants that specialize in it, and Malay, Chinese, Indian and Thai food at food courts. Coffee shops serve teh tarik and kopi. There is no alcohol on sale. During Ramadan, the evening Ramadan markets are a highlight.
Shopping and crafts
Look for woven songket fabric with gold thread, silverware, brassware and the traditional kris dagger at the Brunei Arts and Handicraft Training Center, and souvenirs and textiles at Yayasan, the Mall in Gadong and Tamu Kianggeh.
Parks and walks
The Tasek Lama recreational park, close to the center, has a short trail to a waterfall and a reservoir, with monkeys; Bukit Shahbandar Forest Recreation Park has hilltop trails with views of the South China Sea; and the waterfront is pleasant for an evening stroll. Start early, as the heat builds fast. See our hiking and city sightseeing guides.
Beaches and family fun
Muara Beach and Serasa Beach in the east and the beach at the Empire Brunei resort are good for walks and picnics; swimming is possible in calm conditions, but watch for jellyfish and currents. The Jerudong Park Playground, a theme park built by the royal family, is popular with families. See our beaches guide.
Day trips from Bandar Seri Begawan
- Ulu Temburong National Park: primary rainforest with a canopy walkway, reached across the Temburong Bridge and by longboat; best as an overnight tour.
- Temburong district: the town of Bangar, Iban longhouses and the Peradayan Forest Reserve, about 45 minutes by road across the bridge.
- Tutong: the Sunday-morning Tamu market, the long Seri Kenangan beach and Tasek Merimbun lake, about 45 minutes to 1.5 hours west.
- Seria and Kuala Belait: the oil town with the Billionth Barrel Monument and the Oil and Gas Discovery Centre, about 1.5 hours west.
- Labuan: the Malaysian duty-free island, about 1.5 hours by ferry from Serasa, with onward ferries to Kota Kinabalu. See our Kota Kinabalu guide.
- Miri: the Sarawak city across the border, about 3–4 hours by bus. See our Malaysia guide.
Nearby destinations
- Kota Kinabalu174 km
Getting there and getting around
By air
Brunei International Airport (BWN), about 10 km (6 miles) north of the center, has flights from Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Kota Kinabalu, Bangkok, Manila, Hong Kong, Dubai, Melbourne and other cities, mainly with Royal Brunei Airlines. See our Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Bangkok and Manila guides. All arrivals must complete the online E-Arrival Card. Taxis and Dart cars take 15–20 minutes to the center; some buses also serve the airport.
By land and sea
Buses connect the capital with Miri in Sarawak and Kota Kinabalu in Sabah, and ferries sail from Serasa, near Muara, about 30 minutes east, to Labuan. The Temburong Bridge links the city with the eastern district.
Around the city
The center is easy to explore on foot, though the heat makes shorter walks more pleasant. Buses cost BND1 per ride and run from the bus station in the center from about 6 a.m. to 8 p.m., but they are infrequent. Taxis are few, so use Dart, the local ride-hailing app, or rent a car. Water taxis, small speedboats, wait at the waterfront jetties to cross to Kampong Ayer or for hourly river tours.
When to go and how long to stay
Bandar Seri Begawan has a hot, humid equatorial climate, with average temperatures of 27–28 °C (81–83 °F) all year, daytime highs usually in the low 30s °C (around 90 °F) and warm nights. Rain falls in every month, usually in heavy afternoon or evening showers. February to April is the driest period and the best time to visit; October to January is the wettest, with more than 300 mm (12 in) of rain a month. Haze from forest fires can occasionally affect air quality in dry years. The table uses the 1991–2020 climate normals for the Brunei Meteorological Department’s station at the international airport, as submitted to the World Meteorological Organization (WMO): average daily mean temperature, total rain and days with at least 1 mm of rain.
| Month | Average temperature | Rain (days with 1 mm or more) | What to expect |
|---|---|---|---|
| January | 27 °C (81 °F) | 321 mm (12.6 in), 18 days | Wet; heavy showers |
| February | 27 °C (81 °F) | 163 mm (6.4 in), 12 days | Drier; National Day on February 23 |
| March | 28 °C (82 °F) | 143 mm (5.6 in), 13 days | The driest month |
| April | 28 °C (82 °F) | 242 mm (9.5 in), 16 days | Warm; afternoon showers |
| May | 28 °C (83 °F) | 260 mm (10.2 in), 18 days | The warmest month |
| June | 28 °C (82 °F) | 238 mm (9.4 in), 17 days | Showers |
| July | 28 °C (82 °F) | 242 mm (9.5 in), 17 days | Sultan’s Birthday on July 15 |
| August | 28 °C (82 °F) | 232 mm (9.1 in), 17 days | Showers; haze possible in dry years |
| September | 28 °C (82 °F) | 235 mm (9.3 in), 18 days | Showers |
| October | 27 °C (81 °F) | 314 mm (12.3 in), 21 days | Wetter |
| November | 27 °C (81 °F) | 323 mm (12.7 in), 22 days | Wet |
| December | 27 °C (81 °F) | 359 mm (14.1 in), 22 days | The wettest month |
The airport station receives about 3,070 mm (121 in) of rain a year.
One day in Bandar Seri Begawan
Morning at the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and the Royal Regalia Museum, a water taxi to Kampong Ayer and its cultural gallery, lunch on nasi katok, the Jame’ ‘Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque in the afternoon, a sunset river trip to see proboscis monkeys and the palace, and dinner at the Gadong night market.
Two days
Add Tamu Kianggeh, the Brunei Museum and the Malay Technology Museum, a walk at Tasek Lama or Bukit Shahbandar, and an evening at the Empire Brunei, or spend the second day in Temburong.
What a trip to Bandar Seri Begawan costs
Prices are approximate, for October 2026, converted at about 1.28 Brunei dollars to the US dollar.
| Item | Typical cost |
|---|---|
| Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque and Royal Regalia Museum | free |
| Water taxi to Kampong Ayer | BND1–3 (about US$0.80–2.35) per person |
| Private river and mangrove tour, one hour | BND20–40 (about US$16–31) per boat |
| Nasi katok | BND1–3 (about US$0.80–2.35) |
| Dinner at the Gadong night market | BND5–10 (about US$4–8) |
| Bus ride | BND1 (about US$0.80) |
| Dart ride across town | BND5–12 (about US$4–9.50) |
| Ulu Temburong overnight tour | BND150–300 (about US$117–234) per person |
| Mid-range hotel double, per night | BND80–150 (about US$62–117) |
Practical tips for Bandar Seri Begawan
- Plan around Fridays: shops and restaurants close from 12 noon to 2 p.m., and mosques close to non-Muslims on Friday mornings.
- Dress for mosques: carry a scarf and long clothes; robes are lent at the main mosques.
- Download Dart: taxis are scarce.
- Carry small notes: for water taxis, markets and food stalls.
- Go to the river late: proboscis monkeys appear in the late afternoon.
- Complete the E-Arrival Card before you fly: airlines may ask for it at check-in.
Safety
Bandar Seri Begawan is very safe, with low crime; take normal care of valuables and don’t leave them in cars. The main risks are environmental: saltwater crocodiles live in the Brunei River and mangroves and have attacked people fishing on the banks, so keep away from the water’s edge and keep your hands inside boats; check that water taxis carry life jackets; and watch for venomous snakes on forest trails. Heat and humidity are intense, so drink plenty of water. Drivers can be fast and unpredictable, so take care crossing roads. Respect the strict laws on alcohol, drugs, dress and public behavior, and do not criticize the royal family. In an emergency, call 993 for police, 991 for an ambulance, 995 for fire and 998 for search and rescue; the RIPAS public hospital is in the city.
What to pack for Bandar Seri Begawan
Light, breathable, modest clothes, including long trousers or a long skirt and a top with sleeves for mosques, a headscarf for women, sandals that slip off easily, a compact umbrella or rain jacket, sunscreen, a hat, insect repellent, and an adapter for British-style three-pin plugs. See our rain jackets and travel adapters guides.
Bandar Seri Begawan travel FAQ
Is Bandar Seri Begawan worth visiting?
Yes, for two or three days: the mosques, Kampong Ayer, river trips to see proboscis monkeys and the night markets are memorable, and it is the gateway to Ulu Temburong.
Can non-Muslims visit the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque?
Yes, outside prayer times, but not on Thursday evenings and Friday mornings. Dress modestly; women must cover their head, shoulders and knees, and robes are provided.
How do I get to Kampong Ayer?
By water taxi from the jetties along the waterfront, for a dollar or two per person, in a few minutes.
Where can I see proboscis monkeys near Bandar Seri Begawan?
In the mangroves along the Brunei River, on a late-afternoon boat trip from the waterfront, about an hour or two in total.
Can you visit the Sultan’s palace?
Only during the three days of Hari Raya Aidilfitri, when the Istana Nurul Iman opens to the public; otherwise, view it from the river.
How many days do I need in Bandar Seri Begawan?
Two days for the city, or three or four with Ulu Temburong National Park.
How far is the airport from Bandar Seri Begawan?
About 10 km (6 miles), 15–20 minutes by car.
Is there public transport in Bandar Seri Begawan?
Yes: buses for BND1 a ride from about 6 a.m. to 8 p.m., water taxis on the river and the Dart ride-hailing app.
What is the best time to visit Bandar Seri Begawan?
February to April, the driest months; it is hot all year.
Can I buy alcohol in Bandar Seri Begawan?
No. Alcohol is not sold in Brunei; non-Muslim visitors may bring a limited, declared amount to drink in private.
Sources and last review
Researched and last reviewed on 5 October 2026. Mosque dress codes, Friday closures, the E-Arrival Card, alcohol rules, public buses, Dart and the search-and-rescue number: Brunei Tourism, the official tourism site; climate normals: the Brunei Meteorological Department via the World Meteorological Organization’s 1991–2020 normals. Crocodiles, snakes, boat safety, crime and road safety: the UK government’s factual safety pages. The exchange rate is a cross rate from the Central Bank of Myanmar’s published rates. Monument dates, the palace’s size, museum details and opening hours, mosque visiting times, distances, journey times, emergency numbers other than search and rescue, and typical prices are general references or estimates, flagged for checking. Prices and rules change, so check locally before you go. For visa rules, money and the country’s laws, see our Brunei travel guide.
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