Portofino is the tiny fishing village on the Italian Riviera that became a symbol of Mediterranean glamour. Tall houses painted ochre, pink and terracotta curve around a small harbour where fishing boats share the water with superyachts, and green, steep hills of pines, olives and holm oaks rise all around. Above it, a medieval fort, Castello Brown, a hilltop church and a lighthouse look out over the Gulf of Tigullio. The village has only a few hundred residents, and the whole promontory is protected as a regional park and a marine reserve, so it has stayed remarkably unspoilt: it is a place for a stroll, a coffee in the Piazzetta, a walk to the lighthouse and a boat or hike to the hidden abbey of San Fruttuoso. Most visitors come for the day from Genoa, Santa Margherita Ligure or the Cinque Terre, and it is busiest from late morning to late afternoon. Spring and early autumn are the loveliest times.
Right now in Portofino
- Wed17–23°C62–73°F26 mm rain
- Thu18–20°C64–67°F57 mm rain
- Fri17–19°C63–65°F17 mm rain
Top tours in Portofino
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Portofino at a glance
- Best for: harbour views, a walk to the lighthouse and Castello Brown, coastal hikes in the Portofino park, boat trips to San Fruttuoso, snorkeling and diving, and people-watching.
- How long: half a day for the village and the viewpoints; a full day with San Fruttuoso; 2–3 days if you stay on the Gulf and add Camogli and the park trails.
- Best time: April–June and September–October. July and August are crowded and expensive; winter is quiet, with fewer boats.
- Book ahead: hotels in Portofino itself, which are few and very expensive, and summer restaurant tables in the Piazzetta.
- Getting in: by train to Santa Margherita Ligure, then bus 782 or a boat; or by boat from Rapallo, Camogli, Genoa and the coast in season. Parking is very limited.
- Before you go: entry rules, money, trains and general safety are on our Italy travel guide.
Portofino and the villages around it
Portofino is tiny: you can walk around the whole village in half an hour. Most visitors stay in the larger towns on the Gulf of Tigullio and the Golfo Paradiso, all within half an hour by bus, boat or train.
The Piazzetta and the harbour
The heart of Portofino is the cobbled Piazzetta at the end of the harbour, lined with café tables, designer boutiques and seafood restaurants, with the famous painted houses behind. In the busy season the village sets “red zones” along the waterfront where standing still is not allowed during the day, to stop crowds blocking the quay; follow the signs and keep moving when taking photos.
San Giorgio, Castello Brown and the lighthouse
From the harbour, a stepped path climbs to the church of San Giorgio, said to keep relics of Saint George, and on to Castello Brown, the fort above the bay. Continue along the wooded path to the lighthouse at Punta del Capo, the promontory’s tip, for views across the gulf.
Paraggi
A small bay just before Portofino on the road from Santa Margherita, with a sandy beach, beach clubs and emerald water. It is the closest place to swim; there is a small free section, but most of it is paid.
Santa Margherita Ligure, Rapallo and Camogli
Santa Margherita Ligure, 5 km away, is an elegant seaside town with a palm-lined promenade, a railway station and many more hotels; it is the most practical base. Rapallo, beyond it, is bigger and better value. Camogli, on the western side of the promontory, is a picturesque fishing town of tall painted houses and the start of the trail to San Fruttuoso.
Top things to see in Portofino
Prices and hours were checked on the official sites in October 2026, unless we say otherwise; check again before you go.
The harbour and the Piazzetta
Arrive by boat if you can: rounding the point to see the harbour open up is the classic Portofino moment. Then stroll the quay, sit for a (pricey) coffee in the Piazzetta, and look for the best photo angle from the path up to San Giorgio, which shows the whole curve of houses and boats.
Castello Brown
This small fortress above the harbour has guarded the bay since the Middle Ages. It takes its name from Montague Yeats Brown, the British consul in Genoa who owned it from 1867 to 1905 and turned it into a romantic residence with gardens; the City of Portofino bought it in 1961. The terraces have the best view of the village. According to the castle’s official site, the ticket for the park and castle costs €10 from 1 April to 3 November (€5 from 7 January to 31 March), free up to age 12, sold only at the entrance. It opens 10:00–18:00 in October and 10:00–16:00 from November to March, with last entry 30 minutes before closing; from June to August it stays open until 21:00.
The lighthouse at Punta del Capo
A flat, shady walk of about 20 minutes from the harbour, past villas and gardens, leads to the lighthouse at the very tip of the promontory, with views over the Gulf of Tigullio and the open sea. There is a small bar in season. It is the easiest walk in Portofino and lovely at sunset.
San Fruttuoso abbey
In a tiny cove on the far side of the promontory, reachable only on foot or by boat, the medieval abbey of San Fruttuoso stands right on a pebble beach, with a Doria family tower above it. The abbey is cared for and open to visitors by FAI, the Italian National Trust; check its site for current tickets and hours. Off the cove, at about 17 m, the bronze statue of Christ of the Abyss (Cristo degli Abissi) stands on the seabed, placed in 1954 in memory of those lost at sea; divers visit it, and on clear days you can see it from the surface. There are two simple restaurants on the beach.
More to see
- Church of San Giorgio: on its little hill between the harbour and the castle, with sea views on both sides.
- Church of San Martino: the parish church just behind the Piazzetta.
- The Doria tower: the 16th-century watchtower above San Fruttuoso.
- Paraggi bay: the emerald cove on the road from Santa Margherita.
Other things to do in Portofino
Hiking in the Portofino park
The Portofino Regional Natural Park protects the whole promontory with a network of marked trails. From Portofino, a path climbs over the headland to San Fruttuoso in about 2 hours; from Camogli, the classic route via San Rocco and Pietre Strette takes about 2 hours 30 minutes. A more exposed variant from San Rocco along the cliffs, with chains and handholds, is for experienced hikers only. Paths can close after landslides, so check the park’s notices before you go, carry water and wear proper shoes. Boats can take you back. See our hiking guide.
Snorkeling and diving
The Portofino Marine Protected Area has some of the richest underwater life in the Mediterranean, with red coral, gorgonians and caves, and strict rules on fishing and anchoring. Dive centres in Santa Margherita, Camogli and nearby towns run trips to the reserve, including the Christ of the Abyss. Snorkel at Paraggi or around the rocks of San Fruttuoso. See our snorkeling and diving guides.
Boat trips
Boats run between Rapallo, Santa Margherita, Portofino and San Fruttuoso through the season, and longer trips go to the Cinque Terre. A private boat tour around the promontory is the best way to see the coves and villas. See our boat trips guide.
Food
Liguria’s cooking is all about herbs, olive oil and the sea. Try trofie or trenette with pesto, focaccia (and the cheese-filled focaccia di Recco from just along the coast), pansoti with walnut sauce, and fresh anchovies. Restaurants in the Piazzetta are expensive; Santa Margherita, Rapallo and Camogli have better value.
Day trips and onward travel
Camogli and the Golfo Paradiso
Camogli is about 30 minutes from Santa Margherita by train, and in season also by boat via San Fruttuoso. Walk its seafront, see the castle by the harbour and eat focaccia on the beach.
Genoa
Genoa is about 40 minutes from Santa Margherita by regional train, with one of Europe’s largest medieval old towns, Renaissance palaces and a great aquarium; see our Genoa guide.
The Cinque Terre
The five villages of the Cinque Terre are about an hour or more south by train, with a change at Sestri Levante or Levanto, and in season by boat from Santa Margherita and Rapallo; see our Cinque Terre guide. Sestri Levante, with its two bays, makes a pleasant stop on the way.
Nearby destinations
- Genoa25 km
- Cinque Terre45 km
- Pisa116 km
- Lucca116 km
- Milan129 km
- Turin149 km
- Monte Carlo156 km
- Bergamo159 km
Getting there and getting around
By train and bus
Portofino has no railway station. Take a regional train along the coast to Santa Margherita Ligure, about 40 minutes from Genoa, then AMT bus 782, which follows the coast road to Portofino in about 20–25 minutes and is frequent in season. The Genoa MetDaily 24-hour pass (€10) covers bus 782 as well as Genoa’s city transport, according to the city’s official tourism site; see our Genoa guide. In high season the bus can be packed, so start early.
By boat
The Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio runs boats from Rapallo and Santa Margherita to Portofino and San Fruttuoso, with seasonal connections from Sestri Levante, Lavagna and Chiavari. Its published fares are, as examples, €12 one way or €20 return from Santa Margherita to Portofino, €14 or €22 from Rapallo, and €12 or €20 from Portofino to San Fruttuoso. Boats run more often from spring to autumn and less often in winter, and services stop in rough seas. Other companies sail from Camogli and, in summer, from Genoa’s Porto Antico.
Walking from Santa Margherita
A pedestrian path follows much of the coast road from Santa Margherita to Portofino via Paraggi, about 5 km and roughly an hour and a quarter on foot, with sea views most of the way. Take care where it joins the road.
Driving and parking
The road from Santa Margherita, the only road into Portofino, is narrow and winding, with queues in summer, and the village has a single small, expensive car park at its entrance that fills early. Leave the car in Santa Margherita or Rapallo and take the bus or boat.
When to go and how long to stay
The Riviera has a mild Mediterranean climate, sheltered by the mountains behind: mild winters, warm, humid summers and heavy autumn rain. The table uses the WMO 1991–2020 climate normals for the Genova Sestri station at Genoa airport, about 30 km west, the same as our Genoa guide: long-term average daily highs and lows, and days with at least 1 mm of rain. A few months are missing from the official sheet, so some ranges are based on the neighbouring months.
| Season | Average high / low | Rainy days per month | What it’s like | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | 12–13 °C / 6–7 °C | 4–7 | Mild, often sunny on the coast; quiet village | Walks to the lighthouse, Castello Brown without crowds |
| Spring (Mar–May) | About 18 °C in April / 9–11 °C | 5–7 | Mild and fresh, flowers on the promontory | Hiking, boat trips, the San Giorgio feast |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | 25–28 °C / 19–22 °C | 3–4 | Warm, humid and sunny; very busy | Swimming, snorkeling, evenings on the harbour |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | 25 °C falling to 16 °C / 19 °C falling to 10 °C | 5 in September, 9 in November | Warm September, then heavy downpours | Hiking, fewer crowds; pack for rain |
October and November are the wettest months, with sudden heavy storms; trails can close and boats may be cancelled, so keep your plans flexible.
Events worth planning around
- 23 April: the feast of San Giorgio, Portofino’s patron saint, with a procession and a bonfire on the harbour.
- Spring to autumn: the red-zone rules on the waterfront, from 20 April in 2026; check the dates for your visit.
- Summer: exhibitions and events at Castello Brown, published by the City of Portofino.
- Late July: the Christ of the Abyss is honoured with an underwater ceremony at San Fruttuoso.
How long to stay: half a day, 1 and 2 days
Half a day: the harbour and Piazzetta, San Giorgio, Castello Brown and the walk to the lighthouse, then the bus or boat back to Santa Margherita.
1 day: add a boat to San Fruttuoso, a swim and lunch on the beach, and a return by boat or on foot. 2 days: base yourself in Santa Margherita or Camogli and add the hike from Camogli to San Fruttuoso, a dive or snorkel in the marine reserve, or a day in Genoa.
Where to stay near Portofino and the tourist tax
- Portofino: a handful of luxury hotels; magical once the day visitors leave, but very expensive.
- Santa Margherita Ligure: the most practical base, with a station, frequent buses and boats, and hotels in every price range.
- Rapallo: a larger, better-value town with good transport links.
- Camogli: charming and quieter, ideal for hikers heading to San Fruttuoso.
- Genoa: for a city base, with Portofino as a day trip.
Portofino and the towns of the Gulf of Tigullio charge a tourist tax (imposta di soggiorno) per person per night, set by each municipality and paid at your hotel; ask for the current rate when you book.
Practical tips for Portofino
- Come early or late: the village is busiest from about 11:00 to 17:00.
- Respect the red zones: in season, standing still is banned in marked areas of the waterfront during the day, with fines.
- Leave the car behind: use the train to Santa Margherita and the bus or boat.
- Check the sea and the trails: boats stop in rough weather and paths close after storms.
- Budget for prices: drinks and meals in the Piazzetta are among the dearest in Italy.
- Emergencies: call 112.
What to pack for Portofino
Bring comfortable shoes with good grip for the steps up to San Giorgio and the castle, and proper hiking shoes if you plan the trails to San Fruttuoso. Pack a swimsuit, a quick-dry towel and a snorkel mask for Paraggi and San Fruttuoso, plus a sun hat, sunglasses, high-factor sunscreen and a refillable bottle. A light layer for the boat, a rain jacket in autumn, and a smart-casual outfit for an evening on the harbour complete the list. If boats make you queasy, take travel-sickness tablets.
Portofino travel FAQ
How do I get to Portofino?
Take the train to Santa Margherita Ligure, about 40 minutes from Genoa, then bus 782 or a boat to Portofino. In season, boats also run from Rapallo, Camogli and Genoa.
How do I get from Genoa to Portofino?
By regional train to Santa Margherita Ligure, about 40 minutes, then bus 782 or a boat. In summer, boats also leave from Genoa’s Porto Antico.
Can I drive to Portofino?
Yes, but it is not recommended in summer: the single coast road is narrow and busy, and the only car park is small and expensive. Park in Santa Margherita or Rapallo instead.
How much is the boat from Santa Margherita to Portofino?
According to the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio’s published fares, €12 one way or €20 return. Portofino to San Fruttuoso costs the same.
Is Portofino worth visiting?
Yes, for its beautiful harbour, the views from Castello Brown and the lighthouse, and the walks and boat trips around the promontory. Visit early or late in the day to avoid the crowds.
How much is Castello Brown?
€10 from 1 April to 3 November and €5 from 7 January to 31 March, free up to age 12, according to the castle’s official site. Tickets are sold only at the entrance.
Can you swim in Portofino?
Not in the harbour itself. The nearest beach is at Paraggi, a few minutes away, and you can swim from the pebbles at San Fruttuoso.
How do I get to San Fruttuoso?
Only by boat or on foot. Boats run from Portofino, Santa Margherita, Rapallo and Camogli in season; the trails take about 2 hours from Portofino or 2 hours 30 minutes from Camogli.
What are Portofino’s red zones?
Areas of the waterfront where, in the busy season, the City bans standing still during the day to prevent overcrowding, with fines for those who stop. In 2026 they applied from 20 April; follow the signs.
Where should I stay to visit Portofino?
Santa Margherita Ligure is the most practical and varied base; Camogli suits hikers, Rapallo is better value, and Portofino itself has only a few luxury hotels.
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Sources · last reviewed 4 October 2026
Researched and last reviewed on 4 October 2026. Castello Brown prices and hours: the castle’s official site, run by the City of Portofino; boat fares and routes: the Servizio Marittimo del Tigullio; bus 782 and the MetDaily pass: Genoa’s official tourism site; San Fruttuoso abbey: FAI; climate: WMO 1991–2020 normals for Genova Sestri (Italian Air Force station, archived by NOAA). The red-zone dates come from local news reports, and trail times, train times, parking, the tourist tax and event dates are general; all are flagged for checking. Prices, timetables and rules change, so check the official sites before you go. For entry rules, money and safety, see our Italy travel guide.
Data: Weather: MET Norway (CC BY 4.0) · Sea temperature: NOAA CoastWatch · Rates: ECB · Costs: World Bank ICP and price levels · Wikidata (CC0)