The Costa Smeralda, the Emerald Coast, is a short stretch of granite headlands and sheltered coves in the north-east of Sardinia, about 30 km north of Olbia. In the early 1960s a group of investors led by the young Prince Karim Aga Khan bought this almost empty shepherds’ coast and built a resort with strict design rules: low buildings in pastel colours, rough plaster, juniper beams and local stone, tucked into the rocks and the scrub. The result is Porto Cervo, its marina full of superyachts, the famous hotels of Cala di Volpe and Romazzino, and a string of beaches with water so clear it looks like a swimming pool. You do not need a yacht to enjoy it: the beaches are public, boat trips to the La Maddalena islands are for everyone, and the hills behind hide 3,500-year-old Nuragic tombs and towers. The best months are June and September.
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Costa Smeralda at a glance
- Best for: turquoise water and white-sand coves, boat days to the La Maddalena archipelago, sailing, people-watching in Porto Cervo and the Nuragic sites around Arzachena.
- How long: 3–5 nights for the beaches and a boat day; a week if you add La Maddalena, Caprera and the rest of Gallura.
- Best time: June and September, when the sea is warm and prices and crowds are lower than in July and August. From mid-October to Easter most hotels, beach bars and boat services close.
- Book ahead: rooms and rental cars for July and August months in advance, and the parking slot for Le Piscine beach, which needs an online booking from 15 July to 31 August.
- Getting in: fly to Olbia Costa Smeralda airport (OLB), about 30 km away, or take a ferry to Olbia or Golfo Aranci, then rent a car. Buses exist but are seasonal and infrequent.
- Before you go: entry rules, money, trains and general safety are on our Italy travel guide.
The coast, bay by bay
Strictly speaking, the Costa Smeralda is the part of the municipality of Arzachena developed by the original consortium, from the Gulf of Cugnana to Liscia di Vacca: about 55 km of jagged coastline but only a few villages. In practice the name covers the coast from Porto Rotondo to Cannigione. There is no large town, so where you sleep decides how much you drive.
Porto Cervo
The heart of the coast and its only real village: a cluster of arcades, terraces and little squares around the Piazzetta, built in the 1960s above a deep natural harbour. The old port and the new marina hold some of the largest yachts in the Mediterranean, and the lanes are lined with designer shops and bars. Porto Cervo is lively and pricey in July and August, very quiet out of season.
Cala di Volpe, Capriccioli and Romazzino
South of Porto Cervo, the coast breaks into small peninsulas and coves around the Gulf of Cala di Volpe. This is where the most famous hotels sit, including Cala di Volpe itself, built to look like a fishing village by the architect Jacques Couëlle, and where you find several of the best beaches: Capriccioli, Romazzino, the Spiaggia del Principe and, further south, the long arc of Liscia Ruja.
Pevero and Liscia di Vacca
North of Porto Cervo, the Pevero golf course runs down to the twin beaches of Grande and Piccolo Pevero, and the coast continues to Liscia di Vacca and the inlet of Poltu Quatu, a small marina village carved into a fjord-like bay. Quieter than Porto Cervo, with villas and a few hotels.
Baja Sardinia and Cannigione
Just outside the original consortium, facing the Gulf of Arzachena and the La Maddalena islands, these two resorts are more relaxed and better value. Baja Sardinia has a sheltered beach and a summer nightlife scene; Cannigione is a real little harbour town with a waterfront, shops open all year and many of the boat tours to La Maddalena. Both are good bases for families. Inland, the granite village of San Pantaleo has craft shops and a summer market, and Porto Rotondo, a separate marina resort in the municipality of Olbia, is often counted as part of the coast.
Top things to see on the Costa Smeralda
Prices and hours were checked on the official sites in October 2026, unless we say otherwise; check again before you go. The real sights here are the beaches and the sea, so start with those.
The beaches
The coast has dozens of beaches, from tiny coves between boulders to long sandy bays, and all of them are public, even below the grand hotels. The Spiaggia del Principe (Poltu di li Cogghji), said to be the Aga Khan’s favourite, is a curve of pale sand between granite rocks, reached by a 10–15-minute walk from the car park. Capriccioli is a series of small coves among juniper and pink rocks, good for families. Liscia Ruja, the “Long Beach”, is the biggest, with beach bars and room to spread out. The two Pevero beaches are close to Porto Cervo. Most have paid car parks in summer; the City of Arzachena runs some of them and publishes its 2026 parking tickets and season passes on its tourism site. Arrive before 10:00 in July and August, as the car parks fill up. See our beaches guide.
Le Piscine, where you need a booking
The beach of Le Piscine (L’Ulticeddhu), on the Arzachena coast, is famous for its natural rock pools and is protected by a limited-access scheme. According to the City of Arzachena, from 15 July to 31 August you must book and pay for your parking online, with your car’s number plate, on the city’s beach site arzachenaspiagge.it; bookings open 72 hours before the day you want, and morning, afternoon and full-day slots are offered. On the beach you may lay your towel only on Le Piscine Nord; at Le Piscine Sud swimming only is advised. Outside those dates no booking is needed.
La Maddalena archipelago by boat
The view from almost every beach here is of the islands of the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park: pink granite, juniper and sea in every shade of turquoise. The classic day out is a boat tour from Porto Cervo, Baja Sardinia, Cannigione or Palau around Budelli, Razzoli, Santa Maria and Spargi, with swimming stops in the lagoon-like channels. Use an operator authorised by the park. You cannot land on or swim at the Spiaggia Rosa on Budelli, now viewed only from a walkway. If you hire your own boat, buy the park’s access permit online before entering its waters to sail, anchor or stop within 300 metres of the coast; it costs more if you buy it from a patrol. Tours run from about Easter to October and stop in rough weather.
The Nuragic sites of Arzachena
The hills behind the coast hold one of Sardinia’s richest groups of prehistoric monuments, managed by the city’s company Ge.Se.Co. There are seven sites: the giants’ tombs of Coddu Ecchju (Coddu Vecchiu), Li Lolghi and Moru, the Nuraghe La Prisgiona and the Nuraghe Albucciu, the Tempietto di Malchittu and the circle necropolis of Li Muri, older than the Nuragic age. Coddu Ecchju, with its tall carved stone slab, and La Prisgiona, with its village of round huts, stand close together and make the best short visit. The official price list gives €4 for one site, €7 for two and €20 for all seven, with a €7 package for La Prisgiona and Coddu Ecchju; residents and children under 12 enter free. The city’s tourism site lists hours of 9:00–19:00 for the Capichera and Malchittu sites and 10:00–18:00 for Li Muri and Li Lolghi in the 2026 season, with shorter hours in winter.
More to see
- Arzachena town: the main inland town, with the Museo Civico Michele Ruzittu (open 10:00–13:00 and 16:00–19:00, closed Mondays, according to the city’s tourism site in October 2026) and the Roccia il Fungo, a mushroom-shaped granite boulder above the centre.
- Stella Maris, Porto Cervo: the white 1960s church above the old port, home to a Mater Dolorosa attributed to El Greco; the terrace has a fine harbour view.
- Poltu Quatu: a pretty marina village at the end of a narrow inlet north of Porto Cervo.
- Capo Ferro lighthouse: the headland north of Porto Cervo, with wide views over the islands and Corsica on clear days.
- San Pantaleo: granite peaks, a little church square and craft shops.
Other things to do on the Costa Smeralda
Snorkeling, diving and sailing
The granite coast and the islands are a natural aquarium: fish around every rock, sea grass meadows and clear water even close to shore. Snorkel from Capriccioli or the rocks near Romazzino, or join a dive centre for trips to the La Maddalena archipelago or the protected waters around Tavolara, south of Olbia. Sailing schools and charter companies work from Porto Cervo, Poltu Quatu, Cannigione and Porto Rotondo, and rubber-boat hire is popular for exploring the coves; check the park rules if you head for the islands. See our snorkeling, diving and boat trips guides.
Walking and cycling
In spring and autumn short coastal paths link coves such as Capriccioli and the Spiaggia del Principe, and the City of Arzachena publishes walking routes on its tourism site; the quiet inland roads suit cycling. See our hiking and cycling guides.
Food, wine and nights out
Try zuppa gallurese (baked bread, cheese and broth), seafood and seadas with honey. Its signature wine is Vermentino di Gallura, Sardinia’s only DOCG, made in vineyards around Arzachena, San Pantaleo and further inland; several wineries offer tastings. See our wine tasting guide. Nightlife peaks in July and August around Porto Cervo and Baja Sardinia.
Day trips from the Costa Smeralda
La Maddalena and Caprera
Drive about 30 minutes to Palau and take the ferry, about 20 minutes, to La Maddalena town; a causeway leads on to Caprera, Giuseppe Garibaldi’s island, where you can visit his house and swim at the coves. See our Sardinia guide for the park rules.
Santa Teresa Gallura and Corsica
Santa Teresa Gallura, about an hour away, has the Rena Bianca beach and the granite rocks of Capo Testa. From its port, ferries cross the Strait of Bonifacio to Corsica in about an hour, enough for a day in Bonifacio’s cliff-top old town; see our Corsica travel guide.
Olbia, Tavolara and San Teodoro
Olbia has a lively old centre and the Romanesque church of San Simplicio; south of it, boats sail to the island of Tavolara, and San Teodoro has the beaches of La Cinta and Cala Brandinchi.
Nearby destinations
Getting there and getting around
By air
Olbia Costa Smeralda airport (OLB) is the gateway, about 30 km from Porto Cervo: roughly 40 minutes by car outside the summer peak. It has flights from mainland Italy all year and many seasonal European routes; most visitors pick up a rental car there.
By ferry
Ferries from Civitavecchia, Livorno, Genoa and Piombino arrive in Olbia (Isola Bianca port) and Golfo Aranci, both within an hour’s drive of Porto Cervo; see our Sardinia guide for routes and operators. Book early for July and August if you are bringing a car.
Buses
Buses do exist but are not frequent. The City of Arzachena lists the ARST regional lines 601 (Santa Teresa Gallura–Palau–Arzachena–San Pantaleo–Olbia–airport) and 604 (Arzachena–Porto Cervo–Baja Sardinia–Olbia), and the seasonal Sun Lines line 20 from Olbia airport to Porto Cervo and Isuledda, which the city lists from 1 June to 30 September. The local Lu Pustali service links Arzachena with the coast and runs on a reduced winter timetable from 1 October to 31 December 2026.
Driving and parking
A car, or at least a scooter, makes life much easier: the beaches, villages and Nuragic sites are spread out and the roads between them are winding. Many beach car parks are paid in summer, and in Porto Cervo you park in the public car parks above the village and walk down. Respect no-parking signs: fines are common in high season.
When to go and how long to stay
The coast has a Mediterranean climate: hot, dry, very sunny summers, mild, rainy winters and frequent wind. The table uses the WMO 1991–2020 climate normals of the Italian Air Force station at Olbia Costa Smeralda airport, about 30 km south of Porto Cervo: average daily highs and lows, and days with at least 1 mm of rain. These are long-term averages, not a forecast.
| Season | Average high / low | Rainy days per month | What it’s like | Good for |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Winter (Dec–Feb) | 14–15 °C / 5–6 °C | 6–8 | Mild but windy; nearly all hotels and beach services closed | Quiet walks, the Nuragic sites, low prices |
| Spring (Mar–May) | 17–24 °C / 6–11 °C | 4–6 | Green hills and flowers; the season opens from Easter | Walking, cycling, empty beaches in late May |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | 29–32 °C / 16–19 °C | 1–2 | Hot, dry and sunny; very busy and expensive in August | Swimming, boat trips, sailing, nightlife |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | 28 °C falling to 19 °C / 16 °C falling to 9 °C | 4 in September, 8–9 in November | Warm sea in September; closures from mid-October | Swimming, sailing regattas, fewer crowds |
The sea is warm enough for most swimmers from June to early October. The mistral, the strong north-westerly wind, can blow for several days in any season; on those days pick beaches facing south or east, which are usually calmer.
Events worth planning around
- Late spring to September: the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda’s regatta season in Porto Cervo. In 2026 the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup ran from 6 to 12 September and the Rolex Swan Cup from 13 to 19 September; check the club’s calendar for 2027.
- July and August: concerts, exhibitions and events in Porto Cervo’s Piazzetta and in Arzachena, published by the city and the Consorzio Costa Smeralda.
- 10–11 October 2026: Giornate FAI d’Autunno and Monumenti Aperti in Arzachena, with free guided visits and the first-ever opening of the Jacques Couëlle villas at Monti Mannu, Abbiadori, future home of a Costa Smeralda museum.
How long to stay: 3, 5 and 7 days
3 days: a beach day between Capriccioli and the Spiaggia del Principe, a boat day around the La Maddalena islands, and a morning at Coddu Ecchju and La Prisgiona followed by an evening in Porto Cervo.
5 days: add Liscia Ruja and the Pevero beaches, an afternoon in San Pantaleo and a day on La Maddalena and Caprera by ferry from Palau. 7 days: add Santa Teresa Gallura and Capo Testa, a day in Corsica, or the beaches of San Teodoro.
Where to stay on the Costa Smeralda and the tourist tax
- Porto Cervo: for nightlife, shopping and the yacht scene; the most expensive base.
- Cala di Volpe, Capriccioli and Romazzino: famous beach resorts and villas close to the best beaches; luxury prices.
- Baja Sardinia and Cannigione: relaxed, better value, with boat tours on the doorstep; good for families.
- San Pantaleo: boutique stays in a granite village inland, 15–20 minutes from the beaches.
- Olbia: the cheapest option and open all year, with the airport and ferries close by; about 40 minutes from Porto Cervo.
For July and August, book months ahead; minimum stays are common. Arzachena charges a tourist tax (imposta di soggiorno) per person per night in the summer season, collected by your hotel or rental and set by category of accommodation; ask for the current rate when you book. Olbia and other towns nearby have their own.
Practical tips for the Costa Smeralda
- Rent the car early: in July and August rental cars from Olbia airport sell out and prices soar.
- Book Le Piscine: from 15 July to 31 August, reserve your parking on arzachenaspiagge.it up to 72 hours ahead.
- Leave the sand: taking sand, pebbles or shells from Sardinian beaches is illegal and fined.
- Check the wind: when the mistral blows, boat tours may be cancelled; keep a spare day.
- Emergencies: call 112.
What to pack for the Costa Smeralda
Pack for sun and sea: swimsuits, a quick-dry towel, a sun hat, sunglasses and high-factor reef-friendly sunscreen, plus a snorkel mask, because the water is too clear not to look underwater. Water shoes help on the granite rocks and at Le Piscine. A light windproof jacket helps on boat days and when the mistral blows. Add trainers for the paths and Nuragic sites, a refillable bottle, one smart-casual outfit for Porto Cervo, and travel-sickness tablets if boats make you queasy.
Costa Smeralda travel FAQ
Where exactly is the Costa Smeralda?
In the north-east of Sardinia, in the municipality of Arzachena, about 30 km north of Olbia. The original resort runs from the Gulf of Cugnana to Liscia di Vacca, with Porto Cervo as its centre, but the name is often used for the coast from Porto Rotondo to Cannigione.
How do I get to the Costa Smeralda?
Fly to Olbia Costa Smeralda airport or take a ferry to Olbia or Golfo Aranci, then drive: Porto Cervo is about 30 km from the airport. Seasonal buses run from the airport, but a rental car is far more practical.
Do I need a car on the Costa Smeralda?
Realistically, yes, or a scooter: buses are infrequent and the beaches are spread out. Taxis and transfers are expensive.
Are the beaches on the Costa Smeralda free?
Yes. All beaches in Italy are public up to the shore, including those below the luxury hotels. You pay for car parks in summer, and for sunbeds if you use a beach club.
Do I need to book Le Piscine beach?
Only from 15 July to 31 August, when the City of Arzachena requires you to book and pay for parking online on arzachenaspiagge.it, from 72 hours before the day. The rest of the year access is free.
Is the Costa Smeralda only for the rich?
No. Porto Cervo and the famous hotels are very expensive, but the beaches are public, Baja Sardinia, Cannigione and Olbia have more affordable hotels, and a shared boat tour to La Maddalena costs far less than a yacht. June and September are much cheaper than August.
What is the best time to visit the Costa Smeralda?
June and September, when the sea is warm and the coast is calmer than in July and August. Most hotels and beach services close from mid-October to around Easter.
How do I visit the La Maddalena islands from the Costa Smeralda?
Join a boat tour from Porto Cervo, Baja Sardinia, Cannigione or Palau, choosing an operator authorised by the national park, or take the ferry from Palau, about 20 minutes, to La Maddalena town and drive or ride to Caprera.
How much do the Nuragic sites of Arzachena cost?
The official price list gives €4 for one site, €7 for two and €20 for all seven, with a €7 package for La Prisgiona and Coddu Ecchju. Children under 12 enter free.
Can I take sand or shells home from Sardinia?
No. Taking sand, pebbles or shells from the beaches is illegal under a regional law and is fined; luggage is checked at airports and ports.
Plan your trip
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Sources · last reviewed 4 October 2026
Researched and last reviewed on 4 October 2026. Le Piscine booking rules: the City of Arzachena’s beach site and tourism site; Nuragic sites prices: the official price list of Ge.Se.Co. Arzachena, the city’s company; site and museum hours, bus lines and parking: the City of Arzachena’s tourism site, arzachenaturismo.com; October 2026 events: the City of Arzachena; La Maddalena boat and landing rules: the La Maddalena Archipelago National Park; regatta dates: the Yacht Club Costa Smeralda; climate: WMO 1991–2020 normals for Olbia Costa Smeralda (Italian Air Force station, archived by NOAA). The tourist tax rates, bus timetables, driving times and ferry details were not confirmed on official pages and should be checked. Prices, timetables and rules change, so check the official sites before you go. For entry rules, money and general safety, see our Italy travel guide.
Data: Weather: MET Norway (CC BY 4.0) · Sea temperature: NOAA CoastWatch · Rates: ECB · Costs: World Bank ICP and price levels · Wikidata (CC0)